Not a Dress Diary Part 2

[tudorlady]

Officially, it's not as hot as yesterday (yet), but right now, it's too hot to work upstairs for long comfortably, so I thought I'd come down and annoy you folks.

Here's what I'm doing

Here are two patterns from Alcega for very similar gowns. This is what I'm working from.




and



(click either to see original size)

Not to put too fine a point on it, but these are the same gown laid out on different widths of fabric, which is what Alcega was demonstrating in his book.

I'm fortunate enough to have a copy of the table Bob Trump put together which lists all of the yardage (converted to 44" fabric) for each of the patterns in the book. (He also made a table of each of the symbols used on the patterns and listed the measurements in ells, inches and yards. This guy went to engineering school before he decided his heart really was in tailoring.) According to the chart, the first pattern (f.64a) requires just under 6 yards of 44" fabric, and the second (f.65) required just under 7. I have six yards of the surface fabric, which should do it, inasmuch as I'm not planning to do those sleeves (I have something else in mind that should work nicely) and (b) I'm tiny, heightwise. I can usually cut a doublet for myself with under a yard, and I'm awfully clever with piecing. Still, it's going to take everything I have in this department, because here is the fabric:




There's a dollar coin in the corner for scale - the original scan was 8½x11". Since it's velvet, it's strictly a one-way layout, and if I have to piece, I have to be able to match the pattern or piece in a place where it's not obvious. This can be done.

Since my plan is to use only what's already in the inventory (with very specific exceptions) I'm going to have to punt - I'll probably use the fabric I thought I'd use for lining for accents and bindings (there's not enough of it to build the entire lining) and have to buy additional silk for the petticoat lining. Ouch. The underlining will probably end up being medium-weight linen - I think I have a sufficient quantity in the inventory (but it's going to require piecing, and it may be two different colors, but hey, that's part of the fun and you don't see the underlining unless you go looking for it). This should work, and the only thing I'll be out is money for pearls, beads, and the lining. I already have trim that's a very close coordinate - but it's begging to be pearled and beaded - and I have quite a lot of trim. Still, buying lining fabric for a project IS one of the specific exceptions. (I just can't buy anything that represents a completely new project.)

I'm now ready to start patterning the toile. May the Deity have mercy upon my soul.

Comments

[hakerh.livejournal.com]

Eee! So cool! I'm really looking forward to seeing this happen. :)

[danabren.livejournal.com]

What she said.

[jillwheezul.livejournal.com]

This will be so gorgeously luscious. And you'll look really nice in this color too!

I think I'm going to make a ropa and kirtle. I'm going to pull out that quilted black velvet I started so many years ago and finish it! I have some cream colored damask hanging around too that might might a nice kirtle.

I also think I'm going to clean up the white trim on the immoderately trained Cranach gown to wear that too. Maybe make a 'schaube' the German style overcoat to wear.

I also want a new smock. Where to start? I've started to clean so I can get to work, but have about 6 more hours of paper writing to do this week and I'm done!!! I should not be procrastinating by reading LJ.

Jeebus it is hot - I can barely move without feeling totally miserable. Good for you doing some planning in this nasty weather. I see temps back down in the 70's and some beloved rain is forecast for next week. Whee :)

[florentinescot.livejournal.com]

Duchess Katrina has one of those gowns, and it's just fabulous!

[woffproff.livejournal.com]

Being a seamstresses daughter, I kinda sorta understand all this---certainly enough to know that you are amazing! I bet it will be beautiful.